Day 52 Manchester, NH to Portsmouth, NH   61 miles and 2207 feet of climb

It was 60 degrees and raining when we rode out of the Holiday Inn Express in Manchester, New Hampshire on the final leg of our 3860-mile bike ride across America. Our final destination today was to be Northhampton State Beach in North Hampton, New Hampshire. This was the designated spot where we were to do the traditional "front wheel dip" in the Atlantic Ocean. 52 days earlier, we had dipped our rear wheels in the Pacific Ocean way back on July 2.

For me, the rain and chill of the day actually served to heighten the exhilaration I felt knowing that I was on the cusp of completing a bike ride that I'd been dreaming of since I was 21 years old. There were numerous times during those final 60 miles when I began to quietly cry as we made our way out of the city of Manchester and on to the beautiful country roads of New England. My emotions went up and down just like the hills and valleys we were climbing and then descending. I would start to lose it, and quickly remind myself that I needed to focus on riding safely and strongly until the very last pedal stroke to the ocean.

It sounds like a cliche, but you can really see and feel the history in this part of the country as you ride along through one town after another passing churches and homes dating back to the 1700s.

The plan was to ride together as a group for the last 10 miles to the coast. The British National Cycling Team and I stopped at a coffee shop in the town of Exeter to warm up and wait for all the other riders. After getting coffee, we collected everyone and made the final push to North Hampton Beach. The British team requested that rider Jim Nealon, who lives in Exeter, move to the front of the peloton and lead us all in for the final miles to the ocean.

Wheel Dip in the Atlantic Ocean

The British National Cycling Team plus one American who has no business riding with these guys

Team Diamond Dave 

(L to R)

Tom, Gerry, Dave, Chris, and Matt

My childhood friends Matt, Lad, Gerry, and Tom all made the trip to Portsmouth to greet us at the beach. Matt even had tee shirts made for the occasion.

The fabulous America By Bicycle support staff

(L to R)

Mike, Jake, Jim, and Mark

With my best friend (and the best thing that ever happened to me), my beautiful wife, Chris.

Our entire crew of riders.

This trip has been fantastic in so many ways that even now, two days removed, I have trouble putting into words all the different emotions I'm feeling. We head back to Califonia tomorrow, and I'm performing at 2 events this weekend, so I'm already preparing to get back to work. But at the same time, I'm still trying to process all the rich experiences of the past 7 weeks. It's taken me 3 days just to put this last post together, and it still feels incomplete to me. I think I'll post an epilogue for this trip here next week. Perhaps the words will come easier then. 

Thank you for reading about my adventure. I hope that everyone who reads this blog has the opportunity to experience something as personally enriching to them as this trip has been for me.

Peace

Dave Hosley

Portsmouth, New Hampshire

July 25, 2019 

Day 51 Brattleboro, VT to Manchester, NH  78 miles and 4357 feet of climb

It was beautiful this morning as we pulled out of Brattleboro, VT, quite a change from the heat and humidity of the last few days. It was overcast all day, which helped keep it cool. A few miles into the ride, we entered New Hampshire.

Today, I rode with Brits, Sean, Andy, and Alan ( L to R in the picture above.)
Chris and Steve started a bit after us because Steve had to take care of some travel complications.

We rode on some busier roads, but much of today's ride was on hilly, winding country roads that passed through small New England towns like New Boston, Francestown and Greenfield. All have historic churches and village greens at their centers.  Much of the ride today looked like a postcard from New England.

A light rain started around noon, and a decision was made by my riding mates, Sean and Alan to make hast to Manchester and our hotel before the rain became heavier. We left the last SAG stop and picked up the pace considerably. Some of that was because Sean and Alan knew that their British teammates, Andy, Chris, and Steve would be in hot pursuit trying to catch us before we made it to the hotel. The last 15 or so miles were great fun as we pushed it hard up and down the winding country roads to Manchester. The climbs felt good to me today. Once in Manchester, close to the hotel, I turned off to get some lunch. I believe that Sean and Alan made it to the hotel first, but I'm not positive.

It was another great day of riding. Many of the roads were cloaked in a canopy of trees, and some ran adjacent to brooks and streams. If I didn't have to get back to real life and work after tomorrow, I would dip my front wheel in the Atlantic Ocean, have some lunch, fill my water bottles, turn around and ride my bike all the way back to California.

Tonight at the final supper (we still have one more day of riding to the coast) they asked everyone to stand up and talk about how they felt about the ride. The British riders gave wonderfully funny presentations that poked fun at America and expressed how much they enjoyed the ride. It was clear to me that emotionally, this was the only way that they could even begin to cope with their new-found knowledge of the absolute awesomeness of our great nation. Put yourself in their shoes. Imagine coming from a tiny island nation like Great Britain (where cold beer and ice machines are still a foreign concept) and experiencing all the greatness on display here in the United States. I'm sure it was utterly overwhelming to them, much as they would never admit it.

The US riders all expressed their feelings of joy at completing the ride and the hard work of the staff. It was a pleasant last supper together. I got through my brief testimonial without crying, but just barely.

Tomorrow we ride 62 miles to the coast and dip our front wheels in the Atlantic Ocean.

Day 50 Latham, NY to Brattleboro, VT  79 miles and 6042 feet of climb

Today was yet another extra special day on this adventure across the USA. Jack Himmelsbach, a friend of mine from Simsbury High School Class of 1975, drove 3 and a half hours from his home in Vermont to our hotel in Latham, NY just to join us for the first 35 miles of our ride today. He rode a total of 70 miles today because he, of course, had to ride back to get his car at the hotel.

 Jack, myself and British National Cycling Team member Steve enjoying a bike ride.

Jack and I at the New York- Vermont state line. 

 I had not seen or corresponded with Jack since we both graduated from High School in 1975. Jack's father was our family physician for over 25 years in Simsbury, Connecticut, where we grew up. In High School, Jack and I skied together a few times, but generally, we didn't hang out with the same crowd. We both agreed that High School was not the easiest of times for either of us. I hung out in the music department as much as I could. I'm not sure where Jack hung out, but I'm sure he had his preferred place as well. I knew Jack had become a Vermont State Trooper almost right out of High School, from speaking with his Dad at a medical appointment back in 1980. Up until a few weeks ago, that was the last I knew of Jack Himmelsbach. Then a friend of mine posted something about me doing this bike ride on Facebook. Jack saw it and emailed me about joining us.

Last night and today it was great catching up and riding with Jack. He is an avid bike rider, and that showed today as we rode with the British National Cycling Team- Masters Division. He got high marks from everyone. It had been a while since Jack had ridden in a paceline, but he didn't miss a beat. There is not an ounce of fat on that guy, just like back in High School. I'm trying to convince him to join me on the next bike tour I do.

I wasn't going to put this next item in tonight's blog entry, but I feel I must. 

We had many hills to climb today, and the most significant climbs were 8 miles and 2 miles long, respectively. Climbing has never been my strong suit as I've mentioned here before, so when we approached the 8-mile climb today, I implored the Brits to carry on up the hill and let me grind up it slowly as I always do. But as much as I insisted they would not have any of it and they insisted that I take the lead as we started up. These guys can devour hills and mountains, and here they are, slowly making their way up the climb at my less than impressive pace. "We're a team!" they'd say. 

On the way up, Steve was coaching me, telling me the grade that was coming up and to keep breathing and not push it too hard. I kept saying, "I'd feel more comfortable in the back. " And the response I got from another Brit, Chris was, "Well that wouldn't be training now would it?".

On the second 2 mile climb, Andy (who is a fantastic bike rider) was at the front, and he kept the pace such that I could stay on the back and not fall off. At the top of the climb, he gave me a thumbs up.   

I still feel as though I don't belong with these guys, but they have been so helpful and gracious to me all these weeks that I'm at a loss for words.

One last tidbit. I asked Jack if he thought Vermont had changed much over the previous 35 years that he's lived here. He didn't hesitate, "No.," he said. 

Indeed, Brattleboro, VT, where we are staying tonight, does look a lot like it did back in the 1980s when I was last here. 

2 more days of riding.  

Day 49 Little Falls, NY to Latham, NY  78 miles and 2307 feet of climb

 We headed out of Little Falls and again rode along the historic Erie Canal.
It was hot and humid again today but the scenery and beautiful riding more than made up for it.

Along the way, we stopped and had homemade ice cream and donuts being sold by 2 young Amish girls on the side of the road. You can't see it, but their horse is grazing in the woods beyond the wagon.

Tonight an old friend of mine from high school, Jack Himmelsbach arrived at the hotel. I had not seen or communicated with Jack in over 40 years until he emailed me a few weeks ago. Tomorrow Jack will ride 1/2 way with us to Brattleboro. He is a retired Vermont state cop and has lived in Vermont for many years. It was great catching up with him last night and sharing how each of our lives has progressed over the previous 4 decades. Tomorrow I'm not sure how much talking we'll be able to do as we have lots of climbing in store. On those days typically, I'm too out of breath to communicate much, and I concentrate on just getting up the hill. 

Only 3 days to go until we reach Portsmouth. Yesterday at the route wrap Jim the tour director mentioned that one thing they do on the next to last night (this coming Monday) is to ask everyone to stand up and talk about their impressions of the trip and what it meant to them. I'm not sure I'll be able to get through something like that, I'll get too emotional. 

Day 48 Syracuse, NY to Little Falls, NY  79 miles and 1754 feet of climb

The Syracuse Nationals Classic Hot Rod Car show is opening tomorrow, and many of the over 3000 entrants are parked in our hotel parking lot.

As always, we started the day at 7:00 AM by loading our luggage into the trailer. Then it was off to Little Falls, NY., almost 80 miles away. It was hot and humid all day, so we kept moving.

Small towns, country roads winding through picturesque green fields and forests were the order of the day. We rode along portions of the Erie Canal. 

During the last eight miles Andy, Chris and Steve of the British National Cycling Team- Masters Division got bored, so they decided to kick it up a few notches and race to the hotel. I chased them with all I had for about 4 or 5 miles, but I could not catch them. Still, it's very cool to watch these guys put it into another gear. 

Fun as that was, the highlight of the day was meeting my brother Steve at the hotel in Little Falls when I rode in. 

Steve was kind enough to drive up from New York City so we could spend some time together in the afternoon and evening. 

Tomorrow we ride to Latham, NY again riding along portions of the Erie Canal. 

Day 47 Canandaigua, NY to Syracuse, NY 70 miles and 2300 feet of climb

 What a difference a day makes. Today it was foggy when we started at 7:00 AM, and as the morning hours passed, the sun came out, and it turned into a beautiful day for bike riding. No flats today in contrast to yesterday when there were a record 42 flats between the 15 riders on our tour.

I again rode with the British National Cycling Team- Masters Division. We kept a nice pace going all-day. One of the Brits, Andy, is convinced that my bike is too big for me, and I believe he is correct. I've had my Trek bike for 4 years, and I feel very comfortable on it, it's a great bike. But the Brits all say that I'm too stretched out on the bike and that my riding position is not optimal. This makes climbing more of a chore than it ought to be, as I'm not in an efficient riding position. I think they have a point. When I get home, I'll be doing some research on proper bike fitting to educate myself. I've always been very comfortable on my bike, but I think a slightly smaller frame might work better for me. I plan to stay with the Trek brand as I've been pleased with my past two Trek bikes.  

The riding today was beautiful as we rode through small town after small town on our way to Syracuse. We passed a few lakes and then we had lunch at a little cafe in the village of Liverpool, New York. How appropriate. 

The Syracuse Nationals Classic Car Show starts tomorrow, so this town is filled with classic cars and hot rods from all eras along with their proud owners. As you watch the traffic down the main street, you see (and hear) classic car after classic car come cruising by. 

Tomorrow we ride to Little Falls, NY. Only 5 more days until we dip our front wheels in the Atlantic Ocean. 

Day 46 Buffalo, NY to Canandaigua, NY  90 miles and 3414 feet of climb

Today was a day like no other on our ride across America. It rained most of the day, and our trip through scenic upstate New York was quite literally punctuated by multiple flat tires on almost an hourly basis. The Brits and I got in at around 4:30, the latest we've ever finished a day of riding on this tour. I only had one flat myself, but our group of 6 riders combined had probably 15 flats between us. Andy had 5 flats himself. Each time you get a flat you have to take the tire off and check it for whatever caused the puncture (as well as other burrs and wires that might be sticking to the tire that could eventually cause a flat). Then you have to insert a new inner tube, reseat the tire and re-inflate it. It probably takes at least 20 minutes or so to do it right. So just do the math, and you can see why we arrived at the hotel so late.

At one point when we were quite a ways from any towns, we happened upon an auto repair shop, and we ditched into their well-lit garage to fix multiple flats. The mechanics were so nice. When the British National Cycling team inquired about where they could find a cafe with coffee the mechanic smiled and told them that they were in the country and there was not much of anything for miles up the road. But then he offered us the coffee and donuts that they had in the break area of their office. The Brits had great admiration for the friendliness and hospitality shown to us by the mechanics who were working in that garage. The mechanics even asked if we needed any tools or tire patches to get us on our way.

Young Zak, who rode by himself today had 6 flats. Another rider, Doug from Petaluma, CA, not only had multiple flats but evidently he needed to replace both of his tires because of all the junk on the road today. The rain really did a number on us today.

We have 15 riders now, Ned from South Carolina joined us in Buffalo for the last portion of our journey. Between all 15 riders, we must have had over 30 flats.

Tomorrow promises to be better with only a slight chance of rain for our ride to Syracuse, NY.

Our Final Rest Day

We visited Niagara Falls........slowly I turned....step by step.....inch by inch...

Dinner with (L to R) Andy, Alan, Jamie, and Sean.

Day 44 Erie, PA to Buffalo, NY   95 miles and 1995 feet of climb

Sunset on Lake Erie

It was another cool, sunny day today as we rode from Erie, Pennsylvania to Buffalo, New York. I rode with the Brits again today and the best I can tell, I got acceptable marks on my paceline performance. However, I realize that they may just be humoring me, knowing that we only have 8 more days of riding to go and that soon they'll be rid of me for good. 

Today's route followed the shoreline of Lake Erie the entire day. However, we only got glimpses of the lake at various points along the route because the road is not right on the coastline. 

Early in the ride, we passed many beautiful vineyards and wineries. I remarked to British team member Alan that it looked just like Napa Valley and he agreed.

At about mile 85 we entered the outskirts of Buffalo. Finding a suitable bike route into downtown Buffalo must have been a challenge for America by Bicycle. Nevertheless, they got us here using a series of bike paths and side streets. I was impressed.

 Buffalo on the horizon.

Tomorrow is our final rest day, and most of us plan to go see Niagara Falls. The talk is of a couple of riders doing a zip line across a part of the falls. That is something I must see if it happens. I have my doubts that people will actually go through with it. I'll report back after tomorrow. 

Day 43 Youngstown, Ohio to Erie, PA   93 miles and 1,912 feet of climb

It was another picture perfect day for a bike ride. We departed from our hotel at 7:00 am sharp and rode first through the outskirts of Youngstown and then out onto beautiful country roads. There were not quite as many hills today but the scenery was just as green and pastoral as it's been for the past few days here in Ohio.

I rode with the British National Cycling Team- Masters Division all day and did pretty well keeping up with their pace with the exception of a few short hills. There was a significant headwind for a good part of the morning so riding in a pace line helps conserve your energy.

The first SAG was at a small church in a little town in rural Ohio. The pastor was nice to come out and greet us and he let us use the church restrooms. When the Brits asked him about where the nearest cafe was he scratched his head and said that there weren't any cafes around that he could think of.

And so it was, we continued on to mile 71 and the second SAG stop. The riding was all on beautiful country roads with little traffic. It seemed like it was right out of a cycling magazine. The SAG stop was at a very popular place called Richardson's Root Beer Stand that is about 1/2  a mile from the Ohio- Pennsylvania state line.

Michael from Columbus, Ohio with a Root Beer Float from Richardson's.

It was teaming with people ordering root beer floats and the like. Many of the riders chose to enjoy the food and ice cream at Richardson's but we decided to forge ahead up the road toward Erie, PA in search of another place to eat lunch. The Brits were none to pleased that we ended up having to go all the way to mile 85 until we happened upon a good place to eat. As it turned out, the food and service were very good and everyone was happy in the end. Then while we were riding the final 6 or 7 miles to the hotel, we happened upon an antique car show outside of a school. We all stopped and looked at the many wonderful cars on display. We arrived at the hotel around 3:30 PM.

Tomorrow we ride to Buffalo, NY.

Another wonderful day of cycling across America. Only 8 more days of cycling until we reach New Hampshire, what a bittersweet thought that is.

Day 42 Wooster, OH to Youngstown, OH    89 miles and 2968 feet of climb

Today's ride featured more country roads, green fields, farms, small towns, and very little traffic.
As we started out this morning, I commented to my fellow rider Jamie that it looked like a brochure for Bike Tours of Ohio.

We also rode by some lakes on our way to Youngstown, Ohio. It got a little warm in the afternoon, but I was at our hotel by about 2:00 PM, so I only had to fight it for a couple of hours. I rode by myself for most of the day. One of our riders, Michael from Columbus, Ohio had a number of his friends and family members meet him at our first SAG stop, and then a number of them rode with him for the rest of the ride today. I'm sure they all had a good time. 

We only have 9 more riding days until we reach the Atlantic Ocean. Tomorrow we enter Pennsylvania as we ride to Erie. So far we have ridden 42 days and had 4 rest days since we started back on June 2.  

Day 41 Marysville, OH to Wooster, OH  103 miles and 4585 feet of climb

This picture of my friend (and our staff bike mechanic) Mark shows some of the beautiful countrysides we rode through today. What it does not show are the rolling hills we climbed for most of the day.

When I was in my early twenties, I played in Cincinnati, Ohio, for a week or two. I also spent a few days in Columbus, Ohio, in the '90s. Other than that, I've never spent any time in the state of Ohio. I can tell you that riding the backroads of this beautiful state for the past two days has been an absolute joy. Lush, green, and bucolic, it's no wonder people pick this place to raise their families, farm, and start businesses.

As I rode with Sean (of the British National Cycling Team- Masters Division), he mentioned - during one particularly beautiful stretch of our route - that it looked like the rides he and his mates do back in the English countryside.

I rode the last 25 miles with Mark. We rode at a good pace, not too fast and not too slow. Mark is a solid rider, only a few years younger than I. He insists that he doesn't hold back too much when we ride together, but I know he is lying. Case in point. Late this afternoon, with about 7 miles to go, as we both were climbing up a pretty steep hill, Mark was about 20 yards ahead of me when seemingly out of nowhere, Andy, and Sean ( two of the Brits) came charging up the hill in hot pursuit of Mark. I watched them battle it out as I muscled my way up the hill and I started laughing. I'm not sure what the outcome was, but it was entertaining, to say the least. Can you say testosterone?

If you are not an avid bike rider, I'm sure that much of this sounds trivial and incredibly dull. I tell people every day, "You know, you really, really have to love riding your bike to make this trip."

And I believe it's genuinely that simple. For most of us, our first bicycles were our ticket to freedom and exploration beyond our own neighborhoods, before we were old enough to drive. That same spirit of exploration is alive and well on this trip some 50 years later. And the beat goes on.

Tomorrow we are off to Youngstown, Ohio.

Day 40   Richmond, IN, to Marysville, OH   106 miles and 2,270 feet of climb

It was not quite as hot today, but it was still quite humid as we rode across the Indiana-Ohio border on our way to Marysville, Ohio. I rode almost the entire day with the British National Cycling Team- Masters Division (Andy, Alan, Chris, Sean, and Steve). They have all been cycling together for years, and as I've mentioned previously in this blog, they typically do several 7-day trips to the Alps, the Pyrenees, and the Dolomites each year. This year they decided to do a "one-off" as they call it and cycle across the USA.

My paceline skills have improved over the last few weeks evidently so, overall, I believe I received a satisfactory rating with most of the team members today, Chris excluded.
Andy is quite adept at filming while riding (something I will never try), and he captured this clip of us riding this morning.

I'm the third rider from the front in this clip. Typically each rider takes a two-mile "pull" at the front before riding to the side and then to the back of the paceline, letting the next man in line take his turn at the front.  

From that clip, you can get a good sense of how it feels in the morning, setting out for another bike ride. 

Really special. 

 Typically I don't eat lunch during a long ride for fear of what my unpredictable stomach might do. But my British friends consider it completely uncivilized if you don't stop for coffee at least once and also for lunch. So today I gave it a go with them in a small cafe in a small town we passed through. Lunch was good, and thankfully, my stomach cooperated. 

It was relatively flat today. More hills are waiting tomorrow. 106 miles today, 105 miles tomorrow as we ride to Wooster, Ohio. These will be our last back to back century days. I believe we have only 10 more days of riding to go.